The espalier technique is ideal for growing fruit trees efficiently in small spaces. It involves pruning and training the tree’s branches against a wall or fence to grow flat rather than outward.
While fruit trees are the classic choice, you can do it with many species to create screens or an ornamental focal point.
In this article, we’ll offer you a step-by-step guide on how to train your trees to maximize growing space or extend your growing season.
What is the Espalier Technique?
In simplest terms, the espalier technique is one in which we train the branches of a fruit tree or shrub to grow on a flat plane, often against a support, by pruning and tying said branches to a frame.
This can be done along trellises, fences, or even walls and is most commonly used to maximize food production in limited spaces.
Additionally, people in temperate climates can extend their growing season or cultivate fruit trees in a Zone warmer than their own by training them against walls that reflect heat against their plants.
The word “espalier” is French and comes from the Italian “spalliera“, meaning “something to rest one’s shoulder (spalla) against”. This is in reference to how the branches “rest” on bindings and supports as they grow outwards.
Although many people claim that the Romans invented this technique, archaeological evidence implies otherwise. In an ancient Egyptian fresco discovered in Nebamun’s tomb (1550 – c.1295 BCE), we can see espaliered fig trees spread across the garden’s walls.
Sumerian and Assyrian depictions of the “Tree of Life” show symmetrical trees with horizontal, fruit-laden branches. It’s likely that humans have been cultivating fruit trees and bushes in this manner for millennia, simply referring to the technique by different names.
Which Species are Best for This Technique?
Hardwood trees and shrubs with sturdy branches are best, as they’re quite hardy and deal well with pruning and limb adjustments. Some of the most popular options include:
- Apples (including crabapples)
- Pears
- Various citrus (orange, lemon, lime)
- Olives
- Peaches
- Nectarines
- Figs
- Plums
Ornamental options include Japanese maple (Acer spp.), redbuds (Cercis spp.), forsythia (Forsythia spp.), magnolia (Magnolia spp.), yew (Taxus spp.), camellia, (Camellia spp.), cotoneaster (Cotoneaster spp.), juniper (Juniperus spp.), viburnum (Viburnum spp.), and jasmine (Jasminum spp.).
How to Espalier a Fruit Tree
Before you begin, determine the espalier style you’d like to cultivate and from which species. The most common ones are horizontal, palmette (fan), candelabra, and Belgian fence. There are also low-growing stepovers, t-shaped, U-shaped, and more.
You’ll also need to consider fertilization needs. If you only have space to espalier one fruit tree, you’ll need to ensure it’s self-fertile; otherwise, you won’t get any fruit. Many fruit trees need at least one other within 20-30 feet for cross-pollination, so do research beforehand.
What You’ll Need:
- A sturdy vertical surface to use as a support for your tree(s), such as a wall or fence
- Items to secure branches sturdily to said support, i.e. eye bolts or wall mounts, plus anchors if need be (depending on what the wall is made of)
- Stretchy plant ties or pantyhose for tying the branches to these supports
- A tree (or trees) that are 2-3 feet in height
- Shovel
- Compost
- Pruning shears
- Measuring tape
- Chalk or pencil
- Drill and bit appropriate for your bolts or mounts
- 12-gauge steel wire (approximately 30-40 feet)
- Pliers and wire cutters
- Work gloves
- Sharp, sterile work knife
Step 1: Measure and Prep the Wall Support Area
Once you’ve chosen the wall or fence to train your tree against, you’ll need to prep it in advance. This is a lot easier than working around an existing tree.
First and foremost, if you’re in a cool temperate zone and will be training your espalier tree(s) against a wall, paint it white. This will help to reflect heat back towards your tree, warming the area significantly.
Next, if you’ve chosen the espalier shape you’d like to train your tree into, use your pencil or chalk to measure and map out the framework you’ll use. For the sake of ease, we’re going to use the standard horizontal framework as an example.
Start with a six-foot vertical line that will align with your tree’s trunk: draw it as high as you plan on allowing the tree to grow. Most espalier fruit trees are within the six to eight-foot range, but this depends on cultivar and personal preference.
Next, measure 16 inches from the bottom and mark there. This will mark the first tier of where your branches will spread out from. Then measure another 16 inches, make another mark there, and so on. Once you’ve done that, it’s time to mark the horizontal lines.
Measure out 42 inches from either side of your vertical trunk line and 16 inches high. Then repeat, so all along the wall or fence, you have markings at 16-inch intervals, seven feet wide. Essentially, you’re creating a guideline for your tree’s growth.
Repeat this process if you’re planting more than one tree at a time.
If you’re creating a palmette, candelabra, or Belgian fence, measure out that pattern instead. You’ll create guidelines aligning with these markings and train the branches accordingly.
Additionally, if you’re training your tree(s) along lattices or cattle fencing, you can skip the wall mounts and simply mark off your training pattern with spray paint or colored plastic ties.
Step 2: Fasten the Wall Mounts and Wires
Now that you’ve mapped out the espalier area, it’s time to prep the wall properly.
Grab your drill and a bit that’s appropriate for the eye-bolts or wall mount screws you’ll be installing. Drill and install one bolt just above ground level, centered on the trunk line.
Repeat this process everywhere the tiers cross (so every 16 inches upwards), as well as at the ends of each of the horizontal or decorative guidelines you’ve drawn.
Next, you’ll cut a length of wire several inches longer than your vertical trunk line. Use pliers to attach one end to the ground-level eye hook, then secure the other tautly to the highest vertical hook. This will create a solid vertical guide wire for your tree’s trunk.
Repeat this process on the horizontal axis, threading the wire through the bolts as you go, and securing them tightly at either end. Ensure the wires are taut, tighten as needed, twist the ends well, and snip off any excess.
Some people eschew this process and simply bolt a heavy-duty trellis or cattle fencing against a wall. That’s absolutely okay, too. Espalier techniques are quite varied, and you can use whatever you have on hand to good effect.
Step 3: Plant Your Tree(s)
Purchase a tree (or trees) that are three to four feet tall, though any size works. These should be available at your local nursery or as bare-root trees online.
In temperate zones, the best time to plant fruit trees is in early spring, after the last frost date, but this will depend on the species you’re growing. Some do even better when planted in the autumn!
As always, do plenty of research to determine the best time of year for your trees to maximize their health and productivity. Our guide is a good place to start.
Aim to plant your tree(s) six to 12 inches away from the wall to allow room for root growth and good air circulation.
Dig a hole about fourteen inches deep or as deep as the growing container and equally wide. Mix the shoveled-out soil with compost and set aside. Set your tree into the hole, and fill in well with the soil-compost mixture. Pack this in firmly and water in well.
If you’re planting more than one tree simultaneously, repeat as needed.
Step 4: Begin the Espalier Process
Use a stretchy plant tie to fasten the tree trunk to the vertical wire. If the tree doesn’t meet the first horizontal tier, let it grow until it does.
Once your tree is taller than the first horizontal wire, and there are a few buds on it already, use a knife or sterilized pruning shears to “top” it (cut the main growing tip off).
Once these have grown five inches long, bend and tie one to the left-side horizontal wire with stretchy bands or pantyhose, one to the right, and let the center shoot keep growing vertically.
Doing this will encourage the tree to create branches at the height of that first horizontal tier. Allow the buds to create new shoots, and prune off all but the three healthiest, sturdiest ones.
Keep this center shoot pruned back to about five inches above the first tier until the horizontal branches are two feet long on either side. Then, let the central one grow until it’s a few inches above the next tier, and repeat the process.
Step 5: Maintenance
Determine when is the best time to prune the species you’re cultivating, and keep them trimmed to the length and height you’re aiming for. Generally, it’s good to prune after the flowers appear in springtime, as the buds will indicate where your fruit will develop.
Nourish your tree(s) well according to their nutritional needs, and inspect them regularly for disease and/or infestation. Re-adjust and change out the bindings as the tree grows until it matures into the desired shape.
Mature espaliered trees still need to be bound against the wall or trellis so they don’t veer off and change their shape on their own volition.