Commonly known as the Chinese money plant, Pilea peperomioides is fast becoming a must-have houseplant because of its modern, minimalistic appearance and easy going nature.
At first glance, this plant looks somewhat like UFO’s launching off of long green stems or flat, green pancakes. No wonder it’s also called UFO or pancake plant.
Having this plant in your home is believed to bring luck and prosperity, and growing Pilea or gifting it is a symbol of friendship and generosity. It’s also known as friendship plant for that reason.
How to Propagate Pilea
One growing pilea is fun; two, three, or four are better.
This special plant can be grown in a few ways: from seed, cuttings, and pups or offshoots. Propagation should be done in spring and summer, rather than fall and winter when growth is slow.
You can use artificial lights and heat mats to stabilize the growing conditions and maximize your success.
When propagating your Pilea peperomioides, always use a sharp, clean knife and clean equipment. Wipe everything down with a 10% bleach solution to reduce the chance of pathogens making your plant sick.
From Seed
Growing this space-age-looking plant by seed can be a challenge compared to other methods. If choosing seeds, it’s best to use fresh seeds from a reliable supplier to increase your chances of success.
Pilea peperomioides plants have an irregular germination rate that can range between 14-28 days. Cold stratification isn’t necessary, though exposing the seeds to temps just above freezing for a few weeks can help germination rates.
Place the seeds in starter cells filled with a well-draining seed starter mix. Lightly cover with a thin layer of medium. Place the seeds in an area with bright, indirect light.
Maintain high humidity by covering the pot with glass or plastic and keeping the seeds at temperatures 50-77°F. Keep starter soil moist like a well-wrung-out sponge, but don’t allow it to become soggy.
Once the first true leaves appear and roots are well established, repot in a free-draining indoor potting mix in individual containers.
From Leaf Cuttings
Multiplying your plants through leaf cuttings takes time, but it’s a pretty straightforward process. It’s perfect for younger plants that don’t yet have pups you can remove.
It will take roughly eight weeks to grow new plants via this method.
First, fill a small glass or jar with fresh, clean rainwater or bottled water. Municipal water can contain chemicals that will inhibit growth, so let it sit for 24 hours before you use it.
Using a clean knife, cut off a healthy, large leaf. Make sure to get a little bit of the stem with the leaf. If you only cut off the leaf, the plant won’t grow.
Place the prepared cutting into the water. The leaf and part of the stem need to be above water level to reduce the risk of rotting, but the part of the main stem you removed should be submerged.
Place in a bright spot that has plenty of bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sunlight. Change out the water every few days.
When roots have developed, pot the cutting up in a free-draining, water-retentive potting mix.
From Stem Cuttings
If you’re growing Pilea already or know someone who has one, this is a simple way to create more plants.
Pilea peperomioides drop their bottom leaves as they age. Many people don’t like this leggy look, so this is an opportunity to trim back and create more plants.
First, check for diseases, as this can also cause dropping leaves. If everything looks good, it’s fine to move ahead.
The original plant will regenerate and grow new shoots wherever you cut it, so you can bring back that bushy shape this way.
It will take about 7-10 days to see the new roots forming.
Prepare a container with clean rainwater, well water, filtered water, or municipal water left out for 24 hours.
Cut the trunk where you want the new growth to emerge using a clean pair of scissors or a knife. If the length you removed is longer than you prefer, remove some of it.
To reduce the risk of rot in your new plant, remove any stems and leaves from the bottom two-thirds. If you remove leaves, check out the section on taking leaf cuttings above, as you can reuse these to make new plants.
Place the removed section into the water and set it in a spot with bright, indirect light. Change the water every few days. Once you see root formation, pot it up in a good quality indoor potting mix in a small container.
From Pups
Pilea peperomioides reproduce by sending up miniature plants called pups or offshoots. These will grow from the rhizomes and the trunk.
These pups are instantly recognizable as they are literally mini replicas of the parent.
To successfully remove and grow on these pups they must be at least two to three inches tall and have grown three or more leaves. Even better if they have emerged from the rhizome and you can get a little root structure with them.
Soil Rooted Pups
- Using a clean mini trowel dig around the base of the pup at soil level.
- Remove the pup along with its roots. You might need to use some scissors to cut the pup away.
- Gently place the pups in clean pots containing good quality indoor potting mix.
- Water well and place in an area with bright, indirect light. Keep the soil moist but not wet.
Trunk Sprouted Pups
- Using a clean, sharp knife, remove the pup from the trunk. Make sure a small piece of trunk comes, too.
- Place the removed pup in a small container of clean rain or filtered water.
- Keep in a sunny position, without direct sunlight to encourage root growth.
- Change the water every few days.
- Once roots are established, pot them up into a well-draining, water-retentive potting mix.
Caring for Chinese Money Plants
When caring for your growing Pilea plants, whether they’re seedlings, cuttings, or mature plants, there are a few golden rules to get them thriving.
Size-wise, don’t overpot this plant. It prefers to be a little bit rootbound. Ideally, give it one to two inches of room to grow and frequent repotting when the growth is established each time.
When repotting, be mindful of the roots. They’re shallow and tender, so they break easily. Take a little extra time to remove and repot the plant to ensure the roots are protected.
Remove and pot up separately any pups prior to moving the parent.
Soil
The potting soil must be free-draining, rich, and loamy. It should also be water retentive. Look for something that contains peat, loam, perlite, rice hulls, or vermiculite. FoxFarm Ocean Forest mix is an excellent option, and you can nab it at Amazon.
Don’t add pebbles or rocks to the bottom of the pot to improve drainage. This is a gardening myth that just won’t die. It actually raises the area where the soil drains, leaving more moisture against the roots through a process called capillary action.
Placing a coin in the soil at the time of planting is believed to bring good luck and prosperity, really making it a money tree.
Water
Too much water and the plant will struggle or die. Root rot causes leaf drop, slow growth, and even death. Too little water, and it won’t grow properly or produce pups. Don’t worry, there’s a pretty good range that will keep your growing Pilea happy.
Regularly check the soil moisture using your finger. Let the plant tell you it needs water rather than relying on a schedule. Does the soil feel like a well-wrung-out sponge? Great! If it feels any wetter, don’t add water. If it feels drier, add moisture.
The plant should be watered evenly at the soil level or using the wick method.
Light and Humidity
At every stage of the friendship plant’s development, light is vital. A balance is required; if the light is too strong, the plant will suffer. Too little and again, growth as well as reproduction will be impacted.
Aim for an area that provides bright, indirect light but not direct light.
The ideal temperature for these plants is around 70°F, but anything between 55-85°F is suitable.
Rotate the plant regularly to promote even growth. Growing Pilea plants tend to take on a crooked appearance over time if you don’t rotate them.
This plant loves steady humidity between 50-75%. It can withstand lower, but the plant won’t look as good as it could. In its natural environment, it receives regular water and high humidity.
For dry climates or those with dry indoor air, humidifiers or grouping plants together can help increase humidity.
Feeding
As this is an indoor plant, supplementary feeding is required. Remember, the plant won’t have access to nutrients in the soil like an outdoor plant does. It relies on you entirely for all its nutrients and water.
In order to maintain the health and vigor of your growing Pilea, use liquid or granule-type fertilizers targeted at houseplants. You want to provide an NPK around 4-3-4 or so. If you buy something stronger, dilute it with water.
Top 5 Problems and Solutions
There are some things to look out for while caring for and growing Pilea peperomiodes. These plants are pretty tough and rarely have issues, but that doesn’t mean it’s impossible. Here are 5 of the most frequent issues that may arise.
1. Dropping Curling Leaves
Dropping and curling leaves are definite signs of too much water. It can potentially be exasperated by too little light. When growing Pilea plants, this is one of the more common issues.
Overwatering causes nutrient deficiency as the roots can’t take up oxygen. Basically, the excessive water drowns the plant and it can’t absorb the required minerals and oxygen to feed itself.
To fix this, let the soil dry out completely. Try moving the plant to a slightly brighter spot and make sure to rotate the container weekly.
When the curled-up leaves regain their shape and color recommence watering. Be careful and do that soil finger test each time you’re tempted to water it.
If the plant shows no sign of improvement after a few weeks, you’ll need to treat it for pathogens that can cause the root rotting. Soak the potting medium in copper fungicide every other week until new, healthy growth emerges.
You can always add more perlite to assist with moisture maintenance and drainage.
2. Poor Growth
If your plant becomes stunted or stops growing altogether, it may be root-bound. Stunted or slowed growth can also be a sign of too little water, too much water, not enough food, or a pest problem.
As the rhizomes underground run out of room, they can no longer support new growth, and the plant will suffer. Regular repotting is the best way to prevent this. Use the next size up so you don’t overpot the plant.
It also enables you to check the health of the root system, particularly for this next disease.
3. Defoliating, Wilting, and Yellowing Leaves
Should your plant look particularly unhealthy with yellowing leaves, irregular defoliation, and wilting, there’s a strong possibility it is suffering from root rot. Root rot is caused by the soil being too wet, depriving the roots of oxygen.
It can also be caused by the pathogen Pythium spendens, a parasitic oomycete or water mold that attacks young roots.
One way to check this out is to remove the plant carefully from the pot and check the rhizome root system.
If they are black, mushy, or slimy roots, time is of the essence to save the plant. If there is no evidence of root rot, then the plant could suffer from underwatering or some other kind of stress.
Remove the plant from its container and brush away the soil from the roots. You may need to rinse the soil away using a stream of water. Cut off all the black or mushy roots using a clean pair of scissors and spray the plant with copper, as described above.
If the roots are too far gone, you can remove any pups and dispose of the main plant so that you can still keep growing Pilea. Keep the pups isolated until you’re certain that they aren’t infected.
Dispose of any removed debris, soil, or plant matter safely and not in the garden or compost bin. Wash and sterilize any tools, gloves, and pots that you use.
It’s worth quarantining any cuttings, pups, or repotted plants until they no longer have any signs of root rot.
4. Drooping and Yellowing Leaves
If you see drooping, yellow leaves, it’s time to look closer at the underside of leaves, new shoots, and the soil. These symptoms could mean there are some unwanted guests on your growing Pilea.
Chinese money trees are attractive to aphids, scale, fungus gnats, mealybugs, and spider mites. A good knockdown spray that is safe for houseplants, like insecticidal soap, will stop them.
If they aren’t prevented from taking over the plant, they will spread to other plants, infest your home, and you risk devastating your precious plant collection. Isolate any infested plants until they are fully treated and pest-free.
5. Discolored or Mottled Leaves
Should the plant start to develop mottled or mosaic-type patterning on its leaves, there may be a nutrient deficiency. Those growing Pilea will rarely come across this issue, but it’s possible.
Early signs that this is the case are when the oldest leaves situated at the base of the plant drop prematurely. The lower leaves on Pilea always drop as the plant ages, but they won’t have a mottled pattern, and they drop one at a time.
Leaves can become yellow-tinged, turning brown and dying from the edge inwards.
Pilea peperomioides require a balance of potassium and nitrogen to thrive.
Before you go tossing in a bunch of fertilizer, check the pH of the soil. The recommended range for this plant is 6.0-7.0 for the correct absorption of potassium.
If the PH indicates a deficiency in potassium, treat it with a high-potassium fertilizer.
Otherwise, feed with a balanced fertilizer or one that is slightly higher in nitrogen to encourage leaf growth.