Looking for long-lasting, perfumed elegance for the garden? Tuberose is the flower to grow. Prized by florists for their beauty and fragrance, tuberoses are all that cut flowers should be.
I started growing these fantastic flowers on my farm two years ago and haven’t looked back.
They are stunning and worth planting on your patch, whether you are a flower farmer or purely a flower lover.
We’re going to get to know this beautiful petal powerhouse.
Table of Contents
What are Tuberoses?
This monocot is part of the Asparagaceae family, meaning it’s related to asparagus. It’s classified in the subfamily Agavoideae, which includes yuccas and agave.
Originally bred by the Aztecs in Mexico and used to flavor chocolate, tuberose (Agave amica, formerly Polianthes tuberosa) later gained popularity in the 1800s in the perfume industry, and it’s still popular for that purpose.
Hawaiians also use it to make leis, and people in India and Bangladesh use it to make floral garlands. In Indonesia, the plants are used in cooking, and the flowers are high in vitamin C.
Though it’s native to Mexico, there are no longer any known wild plants; all existing plants are in cultivation.
Tuberoses have tuberous roots, long, slender stems with multiple blooms, and lance-shaped leaves. There are two forms, defined by their blooms: single-flowered and double-flowered.
The plant is hardy to USDA Growing Zones 8-10 as a perennial, though most people grow it as an annual. They’re not frost tolerant, so they should be discarded or overwintered in cold regions.
Top 10 Varieties
There are many cultivars on the market, both of the single and double types. Here are a few of our favorites.
1. Mexican Single
‘Mexican Single’ has creamy white, single blooms with a deep fragrance on top of tall stems reaching 36-48 inches in height.
A heat and sun lover, it’s ideal for warmer climates, as it blooms from summer to late summer.
Drought tolerant, great for containers, and deer resistant, grab a box of bulbs from Amazon.
2. The Pearl
Pretty ‘The Pearl’ is adorned with creamy white flowers with a subtle hint of pink on top of bold lime foliage. The flowers resemble little pearls with a blush hue as they first bud out. Then, as they open, they’re creamy white.
The flowers are double flowering and compact on stems reaching 36-48 inches. This cultivar blooms in late summer to early fall and should be planted late winter to early spring after the last frost.
3. Cinderella
‘Cinderella’ is the belle of the ball with her soft pink flowers, deepening into lavender at the tips of each bloom. This flower is a spectacular specimen for floral arrangements, drawing the eye to its elegant perfection.
The slightly smaller stem reaches approximately 32 inches in height at maturity, so it’s a good option for a graduated border display, containers, cut flowers, and groupings.
4. Super Gold
If you are short on space and want fragrance for indoors, this is a wonderful option. It’s one of the more versatile tuberoses, with a height between 19 and 30 inches, for inside and outside appeal.
The pale green buds open into golden yellow blooms in late summer. With overwintering, they can bloom even earlier.
‘Super Gold’ is slightly more cold-hardy, and you can grow it as a perennial in Zone 7b.
5. Pink Sapphire
‘Pink Sapphire’ or ‘Chia Nong Pink Sapphire’ is a delicate and stunning gem. It offers the gardener double flowers with lilac tones and creamy white speckles.
Standing up to 48 inches tall, this is a taller cultivar, but it’s still comfortable in containers, border displays, and bouquets. This cultivar has numerous blooms on top of linear green stems and foliage.
6. Sensation
This tuberose, with pastel-toned double-pink blooms, is subtle yet showy. The color is offset by yellow centers and lime-green foliage.
It blooms mid to late summer, typically 90-120 days after planting, with earlier blossoms on those grown as perennials.
The stems are between 23-27 tall, making it another great one for pots or moveable containers. They can be brought indoors once the temperatures drop so you can enjoy them year after year.
7. Yellow Baby
‘Yellow Baby’ makes an impact with pale flowers that transition to medium yellow as it matures. The heady scent on this cultivar is mild during the day and stronger in the evening.
This cheerful yellow cultivar is one of the smaller ones, reaching between 14 and 31 inches.
8. Swarna Rekha
Beautiful ‘Swarna Rekha’ has double-flowered, creamy white, dense blossoms on spikey variegated foliage. The buds develop with a deep pink tint, perfect for fragrant wedding bouquets. As they open, they become more white.
Uniquely, the leaves are creamy white on the margins, with a deeper green center.
‘Swarna Rekha’ is a fascinating cultivar. In 1974, an Indian researcher named M.N. Gupta treated tuberoses with gamma rays to induce mutations. His work resulted in the extraordinary ‘Swarna Rekha’ we see today.
It is hybridized for commercial growing and has excellent vase life and softly fragrant blooms. You want this one front and center in the garden where it can be admired.
As a taller cultivar, it can reach 48 inches at maturity and in the right conditions. It goes dormant in winter, of course, but it’s hardier than many other cultivars and will survive in Zone 7a.
9. NCYU LOVE
If you are a fan of bold and deep colors, look no further than ‘NCYU LOVE.’ The double flowers have burgundy-tinged tips that fade to deep pink tones at the center. It also has ivory white mixed into the petals for contrast.
At maturity, this variety grows between 27 and 40 inches in height. It is suited for containers, borders, and pots in Zones 9-11.
This tuberose is highly scented and double-bloomed for spring and summer displays.
10. NCYU CHERRY
A cousin to the ‘NCYU LOVE,’ this tuberose packs a punch with its intense red-purple double blooms. Petals are slightly bigger than older varieties.
Foliage appears slightly darker than the traditional lime green of the tuberose collection.
Best for Zones 9-11, it reaches heights of up to 40 inches. This cultivar is a sun lover for the most part, but it will put up with some shade as long as there’s exposure to at least eight hours of sun during the day.
Propagating Tuberoses
Tuberoses are not high-maintenance plants, provided they are planted in the right conditions. Tuberose starter growing kits are available for those wanting to get ahead quickly.
Starting From Seeds
It is possible to multiply your plants via seed sowing. It isn’t the quickest method and takes some patience awaiting germination, with an understanding that there may only be a 70% success rate. Your plants also might not grow true.
It is best to collect or purchase seeds from a reputable source, whether from your garden, a friend, or a respected retailer.
With hybrid types, seeds tend not to mimic the parent.
- Fill a small pot or cellular seed tray with a good-quality seed starting mix.
- After cold-stratifying the seeds for at least 24 hours, place one seed per pot or cell.
- Plant seeds near the edge, almost touching the side, to promote bulb formation from developing roots.
- Place seeds near the surface and lightly cover.
- Keep soil moist. Vermiculite can be thinly spread over the top of the soil to prevent premature drying out.
- Wait until the roots have taken and greenery is showing before repotting or planting out.
From Tubers
Normally, tuberoses are grown via tubers, which can be purchased. It is the most straightforward method of propagation.
Plant bulbs in early spring for flowering in the same year.
- Prepare the ground or container using good organic compost or potting mix.
- Plant bulbs six inches deep, four inches apart.
- Keep soil moist and follow the care instructions below.
Lift and divide every two or three years to promote growth and properly formed blooms.
Caring for Tuberoses
As long as you follow these steps, tuberoses are easy-going. They provide a point of focus in the garden and treat the senses with their floral aroma throughout the growing season.
Grow them in full sun, with 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily. Some cultivars will blossom in partial shade.
Protect the plants from strong wind, particularly those that are tall. Plant them where there is some protection, like against a wall or to the side of shrubs. Staking or using floral netting can also help keep taller plants upright.
Make sure there is enough vertical space to reach their maximum height potential.
Tuberoses require regular watering, but they can’t stand being water-logged. Too much moisture results in root rot.
Speaking of root rot, well-draining soil is critical. Amend the soil with organic matter by adding compost or well-rotted manure to improve the soil composition.
To protect the soil from heat and cracking, which the tuberoses aren’t keen on, use organic mulch. Mulch helps the soil moisture, too.
Growing tuberoses prefer temps between 70-85°F during the growing season. Extreme heat and cold can stress these wonderful plants. Temperatures exceeding 105°F may kill the plant, as will freezing temperatures.
Apply fertilizer every 4-6 weeks during the growing season. Use something balanced with an NPK of 8-8-8 or 4-4-4. NPK stands for nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K), and the numbers describe the balance of these nutrients.
A general fertilizer containing Humic acid, the right balance of NPK, and natural conditioners like worm castings, rice hulls, or compost is ideal.
In order to feed and assist with drainage, you can also add well-rotted manure or organic compost.
Pests and Diseases When Growing Tuberoses
Give your plants the right growing conditions, and they’ll usually be fine. But pests and diseases can be a problem, especially in crowded plants or those in poor-draining soil.
Let’s start with the pests you should watch for when growing tuberoses.
Pests
Sometimes, you can see the actual pests. Other times, you’ll have to watch for signs like yellowing leaves, slowed growth, or lack of flowers.
Aphids are common in many garden plants. They use their sucking mouthparts to draw out the plant’s sap. Learn how to identify and control them in our guide.
Similar to aphids, spider mites are common. They cause yellow stippling on the leaves and you’ll often see fine webbing on the plants. Learn about spider mites in our guide.
Some years grasshoppers are a horrible menace, and other years, you might not see many at all. They chew on the leaves and petals and you can generally ignore them unless they’re infesting your garden in high numbers. If they are, check out our guide.
Parasitic root-knot nematodes (Meloidogyne spp.) can’t be seen with the naked eye, but they cause serious damage. They cause wilting, yellowing, and stunted growth. If you suspect root-knot nematodes, visit our guide for some tips.
Rodents will dig up and devour the tubers. Mice, rats, and voles will all eat your plants. If you struggle with these animals, consider growing in containers or tall raised beds.
Thrips are common garden pests. These sap-suckers not only drain the plant of energy but cause wilting, yellowing, and stunted growth. They can also spread diseases.
Diseases
If you maintain appropriate spacing, feed your plants as appropriate, and keep pests out of the garden, you can generally avoid most diseases. Practicing good garden hygiene is also important. Always clean your tools and water at the soil level.
If diseases do find your plants, removing any sickly or symptomatic ones will reduce the spread.
Fusarium wilt can cause wilting and yellowing on tuberose. Good garden hygiene helps you avoid it, but if it arrives, visit our guide for tips.
Root rot can either be caused by pathogens like Pythium spp. or simply adding too much water, causing the roots to drown. If you avoid overwatering and plant in well-draining soil, you should be able to avoid it.
If you dig down and find blackened, soggy tubers and roots, stop watering and let the ground dry out completely. Then, reduce your watering by half and soak the soil with a copper fungicide once a month.
Botrytis blight, caused by Botrytis cinerea, results in white, gray, or cream fungal spores forming all over the tubers and plant. It’s difficult to treat, though there are fungicides that can slow or even eliminate the problem, particularly if you rotate them.
Visit our guide to learn how to identify and control this problem.
Rust is a fungal problem that causes copper-orange spots to form on the leaves. It can be treated using copper fungicide.
Tuberose mild mosaic virus (TuMMV) is rapidly spreading around the world. Infected plants show angular yellow spots and deformed or slowed growth. Symptomatic plants must be culled as there is no cure, and pests spread this disease readily.
How to Harvest Tuberoses
Here are some steps to help you get the most out of your tuberoses.
Blooms should be fully open and mature before you cut the stems. Early morning is best because the plants are fully hydrated and plump in the morning.
Use clean, sharp pruning shears or a knife to cut the blooms at the stalk base. Cut the stalk at an angle to allow better water absorption once the stalks are in water.
Remove any foliage that will sit under the water level to prevent bacterial growth.
Place cut bloom straight into clean, cool water.
Let the stems sit in a cool, dark place, allowing them to hydrate fully. This step enhances their vase life. After a few hours, they are ready for a bouquet or stringing onto garlands if that’s how you’re using them. Otherwise, go ahead and leave them in the container.
Place any arrangement out of direct sunlight and change the water daily.
Companion Plants
Consider planting tuberoses alongside flowers like marigolds, zinnias, geraniums, sweetpeas, and maybe add some coleus for foliage color.
