As a homesteader and avid gardener, there’s nothing like adding new plants to your backyard. Once you delve into all the possibilities of what you can grow yourself and set the challenge, there is no stopping you.
In USDA Growing Zones 8-11, you can succeed growing plantains. These cousins to the banana are a staple across the globe, and more people are growing plantains for food and ornamentation.
Let’s explore this tropical and sub-tropical marvel.
What are Plantains?
Plantains are part of the Musa genus, in the Musaceae family, which comprises about 91 species of plants. Specifically, plantains fall under the Musa × paradisiaca hybrid, which is what all modern edible bananas and plantains are.
This hybrid was created using M. acuminata and M. balbisiana.
They are further divided into the AAB Group in the Plantain subgroup. Within this subgroup are French, French horn, false horn, horn, and rhino horn.
To further complicate things, some people refer to any green, starchy banana as a plantain. We’re talking specifically about true plantains, not green, starchy bananas.
They are evergreen perennials, meaning they do not shed their foliage during the dormant season. And they are absolutely not tolerant of frost.
As the plant grows, it may lose random leaves to make way for growth to occur, but it will never shed all of its leaves unless it’s sick.
The main plant’s stem is predominantly made up of giant leaf stalks that stack on top of one another to create a trunk-like structure, but like all palms, it doesn’t have a true woody trunk. Fun fact: plantains and palms are herbs, not trees.
The leaves and fruit of plantains are used in cooking. The fruit is typically harvested in green or semi-green form, not as the ripe yellow fruit some people are familiar with.
Plantains and bananas are widely recognized as having some superb health benefits.
Adding these to your diet provides potassium, calcium, phosphorus, and nitrogen. They’re also a rich source of iron and vitamins C and E.
One cup serving has 25 grams of fiber. That’s not bad when the recommended daily dose of fiber is 28 grams.
Plantain Bunch Types
This amazing plant comes in sizes from just six feet for dwarf types to taller plants up to 30 feet or more.
It’s not really important to know which group your plant comes from since they all grow the same way, but it’s interesting to understand the differences. Experts look at the rachis, the area between the leaves on the stem, and whether the male flower bud is present or not.
Let’s look at the different groups:
French
Commonly referred to as the French Plantain, this group contains cultivars such as ‘Dominico,’ ‘Egjoga,’ ‘Ntanga,’ ‘Nendran,’ and ‘Obino l’Ewai.’ Home growers that are growing plantains usually choose one from this group.
It’s defined by the large male buds and the presence of a persistent bract on the rachis.
There are three size classes in this group, defined by the number of leaves. Small plants have less than 30 leaves, medium have between 32 and 38 leaves, and giant have more than 40 leaves.
The bunches tend to be large and made up of lots of small fruits.
French Horn and False Horn
These groups lack male buds at maturity. The fruit bunches tend to be large and dense.
Look for cultivars such as ‘Agbagda,’ ‘Batard,’ ‘Dominico-Harton,’ ‘Mbang-Okon,’ ‘Orishele,’ ‘Ukom.’
Horn
The plants in this group only have bracts on the rachis to the last tier and lack male buds.
‘Ishitim,’ ‘Pisang Tandok,’ and ‘Ubok Iba’ are a few common cultivars.
Rhino Horn
These have bracts on the rachis and grow the longest fruits of any banana or plantain. Each individual fruit can be up to two feet long. ‘Golden Rhino’ is the most popular cultivar. Many people grow this group as an ornamental because of the red hue that the plant has.
Propagating Plantains
There are a few different ways to propagate plantains.
You can’t try growing plantains from a fruit that you buy at the grocery store. Most are seedless. But you can purchase plantain seeds.
There are cultivars that can be planted by seed as a fun project, but the resulting tree will likely just be ornamental and won’t grow edible fruits.
If you want fruits, you will need to purchase potted plantain plants from a reliable retailer.
If you’d like to plant by seed, here are the steps:
From Seed
Germination takes anywhere from two weeks to two months. It can’t be rushed, but there are ways to increase success rates.
- Pre-soak seeds in warm water.
- Soak for two to four days, changing the water every day.
- Use heat mats to regulate the temperature.
After you’ve prepared the seeds, sow them a quarter inch deep into trays containing a mixture of half sand and loam. Soil starter combination is important in order to supply the emerging plant with all the nutrients it requires.
Maintain moisture of the soil to a moderate level. The soil should be moist but not soggy. Think of the texture of a well-wrung-out sponge.
You might need to utilize a heat mat to control soil temperature. Keep it around 60°F for 5-8 hours a day and then allow it to cool a bit. Cool temperatures are necessary for at least 12 hours if growing in hotter regions.
Once the seedling is a few inches tall, pot up in a larger pot with the same soil mix. You want the plant to be large enough before putting it outside or potting it into a large container. A gallon pot is about the right size.
Once the roots are well established, which happens when the first three leaves have opened fully, harden the plant off for a week and then plant in a full sun position and maintain soil moisture.
Before you plant, check to make sure that the soil is free-draining, as standing water against the roots can cause diseases and stunted fruit growth. If your soil isn’t well-draining, add lots of well-rotted compost to loosen it up.
For cooler regions like Zone 7, consider growing plantains in a container so the plant can be moved indoors to regulate temperatures.
From Divisions
Plantains die following flowering and fruiting, but they have a clever way of growing new plants to take their place; these are called pups. Pups are miniature replicas of the parent plant and are genetically identical.
Pups form from the rhizomatous roots of the host plant and can be carefully divided to multiply your plant stash. You can also just leave them in place to grow new trees.
To find the pups, inspect the ground at the base of the main plantain trunk. There should be pups (new plants) growing.
Use sharp, clean tools such as a trowel, spade, and knife to remove the pup with roots attached.
Pot up or plant directly in the ground in the prepared, sunny location. To settle it in place, use a good mixture of organic compost, clay, sand, chalk, and loam. Keep the soil moist as it establishes itself, and watch it grow.
This also works when your parent plant dies off. Cut the trunk at soil level, leaving the stump in place. Cover the exposed stump with organic compost and mulch. In about 21-30 days, you will have new plants sprouting from the same spot.
Follow our steps for pup division above to uplift and replant, if desired.
The rhizomatous roots can be divided without pups present. Expose a section of root and, using clean tools, divide it and follow the steps with potting and care as you would seeds.
Caring for Plantains
Plantains can be high maintenance in terms of their need for nutrients and seasonal impact.
They can’t tolerate frosts or temperatures below 20°F. If you are growing in an area that occasionally experiences cold temps, protection is required, or you’ll need to move the plants to warmer areas under some cover.
Use a slow-release fertilizer every four weeks during the spring and summer containing 8% nitrogen, 10% Phosphorus, and 8% soluble potash. Growing plantains require one to two pounds of feed to encourage mature plants to flower and fruit.
Remember, these plants mature in a year to 18 months before fruiting and dying. That means they grow fast and need a lot of nutrition.
Hi-Yield’s Garden Fertilizer is an excellent option and is available at Amazon in four or 20-pound bags.
Soil moisture needs to be maintained religiously. The best practice is to water at the soil level rather than on the trunk or foliage to avoid disease. Generally, plantains need about two inches of water per week, but this varies depending on your soil and climate.
The best method is to either use a rain gauge to determine how much water your soil receives or, better yet, use a moisture meter to test the soil. If it’s dry to an inch down, add water. You can even use your finger to test the soil.
If you’d like the accuracy of a moisture meter, which you can use for all your plants, XLUX makes one with an extra-long probe. Pick one up at Amazon.
Mulching around the plant with good organic matter will assist in pest and disease prevention and retaining adequate soil moisture in the summer months.
They are suited to sunny positions in the garden, either on the outer rim of a wooded canopy or on a border so they don’t shade the rest of your garden. They need at least eight hours of sun per day for full production.
If you are growing plantains as houseplants, be aware that they may not produce fruit in an indoor environment, particularly if they are not one of the dwarf cultivars. However, in a pot or container outside, they will produce.
You can also try growing plantains in a greenhouse if the structure is tall enough.
Problems and Solutions to Growing Plantains
Some diseases and pests must be identified and dealt with to protect your plantain. An indication of disease or pest problems are wilting leaves, poor growth, curling leaves, discoloration of leaves, and unhealthy film on the leaves or fruit.
Using the right feeding regime, plant maintenance and gardening hygiene will assist in repressing such problems.
Diseases
Anthracnose (Colletotrichum musae) causes black or dark brown lesions on the fruit. It thrives in humid conditions. Remove any symptomatic fruit to prevent spread.
Banana Bunchy Top Viral Disease (BBTV) is spread by aphids and causes stunted, deformed growth. Infected trees won’t produce fruit or, if they do, the fruit will be deformed. There is no cure, and infected trees must be removed.
Black Sigatoka or black streak is caused by the fungus Mycosphaerella fijiensis. It causes reddish-brown streaks on foliage that eventually merge and kill the leaf. This can cause slowed growth in the plant. Remove any symptomatic leaves and treat the plant with Captan fungicide, which you can purchase at Amazon in eight-ounce bottles.
Rhizome rot is caused by Pectobacterium carotovorum subsp. carotovorum (formerly Erwinia carotovora ssp. carotovora) and E. crysanthemi. It infects trees in the Pacific Islands, causing wilting and a foul smell as the inner tissue rots.
You can prevent it by buying disease-free sets and cleaning your tools carefully between plants. If your tree is infected, you will need to pull it, but the disease is rare so check with local experts before assuming you have rot.
Moko disease (Ralstonia solanacearum) looks similar to Fusarium wilt, but it causes brown, dry rot in the fruits. Remove infected plants and dispose of them in order to prevent it from spreading.
Panama disease or Fusarium wilt (Fusarium oxysporum sp. cubense) is a devastating disease that threatens ‘Cavendish’ bananas, the type grown commercially, with extinction. It’s also a massive threat to plantains.
It began in Australia in 1997 and spread quickly, devastating plants across the eastern part of the globe. It only arrived in the Americas in 2019, but experts expect it to spread rapidly.
It starts as yellowing of the older leaves, followed by wilting, even when the plant has enough water. Then, the leaves begin to die. As the disease progresses, it moves to younger leaves.
There is no cure, and any offsets the plant puts out will also be infected, so don’t use them to grow new trees. Destroy any infected trees, and don’t plant plantains or bananas there for at least 20 years.
Scientists are currently working on a solution, including breeding resistant cultivars, but until then, this disease is a serious threat to anyone growing plantains or bananas.
Pests
Banana aphids (Pentalonia nigronervosa) aren’t much of a concern on their own, but they spread deadly diseases. Inspect your plants regularly and use your favorite method of aphid control. If you’ve never dealt with aphids before, visit our guide for tips.
Banana weevils (Cosmopolites sordidus) are dark brown to grayish-black beetles that can grow up to a half-inch long. The larvae are white with a reddish-brown head.
The adults lay eggs in the corms of the plant, and when they hatch, the larvae tunnel through the roots. Trapping and beneficial nematodes are the most reliable methods of control.
Coconut scale (Aspidiotus destructor) is a flat, round insect covered in a waxy coating. When it feeds on plants, it causes yellowing and dropping leaves. If you see the clusters of these pests, head to our guide to learn how to treat them.
Companion Plants
Another pest and disease control tool is companion planting to interrupt or deter any infestations.
Useful plants that support growing plantains and can suppress weeds are:
- Lemongrass (Cymbopogon spp.)
- Sweet Potatoes (Ipomoea batatas)
- Comfrey (Symphytum spp.)
- Taro (Colocasia esculenta)
- Ferns (Class: Polypodiopsida)
- Hostas (Hosta spp.)
- Bird of Paradise (Strelitzia reginae)
Harvesting
One of the best things about growing plantains is, of course, enjoying the fruits of your labors.
You can’t tell if plantains are ready to harvest by their appearance. The best way to tell is to check the little flowers at the ends of the fruits. When it becomes dry and rubs off easily, harvest the entire bunch.
Now get out there and start making your tostones (twice fried plantains).