For maintenance-free, adaptable color in the garden, there’s no better choice than euphorbia, also known as spurge.
Euphorbia is a huge genus with thousands of species. This diversity of this genus means there’s something for everyone, from poinsettias to gopher spurge. These plants have been used as medicine and ornamentals since ancient Greece, Rome, and Egypt.
Typically they are easy to grow and they make a superb back drop to flowering borders and some are ideal as greenery fillers for flowers arrangements.
What We’ll Discuss
Top 9 Euphorbia Plants to Grow
There is an abundance of choice when it comes down to Euphorbia. Euphorbia is a genus consisting of approximately 2,000 flowering plants, and is in the Euphorbiaceae family. Better known as spurges, it’s one of the largest groups in the world.
Though the genus is diverse, they share one common factor: they all excrete a milky poisonous liquid when cut. Don’t let this put you off. It’s not usually harmful unless you ingest it or have skin sensitivities. Wear gloves and you’ll be fine!
It’s worth remembering that some species of Euphorbia can be invasive and considered a pest plant in some regions. Here are some species and hybrids worth checking out.
Marsh Spurge (Euphorbia palustris)
With an astounding combination of golden yellow to green flowers that almost appear to glow from within on top of green stems, this is a popular, stand-out species.
Otherwise known marsh spurge due to its preference to have its roots in moist soil, it typically grows two feet tall but can reach up to five feet tall.
This euphorbia is not evergreen. It dies back at the end of the growing season and re-emerges in the spring.
It’s ideal planted with aquilegia, bergenia and geraniums in USDA Growing Zones 5-9.
Martin’s Spurge (Euphorbia x martini)
Martin’s spurge is one of the most striking foliage plants you can buy, with unusual with flecks of red at the hearts of each neon lime green flower. It also has spectacular foliage of dark green, and can reach a maximum height and spread of 18-24 inches.
It offers fantastic ground cover as a dwarf evergreen perennial.
A great companion plant with Lunaria annua (Honesty), tulips, irises, alliums, and other foliage plants such as smoketrees (Cotinus spp.).
Best suited for Zones 6-11 and dry conditions with well-draining, loamy soil.
Griffith’s Spurge (Euphorbia griffithii)
Commonly known as Griffith’s spurge, this species has some beautiful cultivars.
With firey flower hues of red, yellow and sunset peach, ‘Dixter’ is eye-catching. Even the leaves display tints of flame red, particularly as autumn dawns and this perennial euphorbia’s foliage shifts from green to red.
This plant is one for those wanting a season-shifting display for borders and garden areas without replanting.
‘Fireglow’ has orange-red flowers and leaves that are tinged in red.
Plant these alongside lupines, tulips, and lavender. Divide in springtime if plants are too crowded.
Both of these cultivars make good garden fillers, growing up to 35 inches in height by 25 inches wide when fully established in Zones 4-9.
Wood Spurge (Euphorbia amygdaloides)
E. amygdaloides is commonly known as wood spurge, and ‘Purpurea’ is one of the best cultivars. A shade-loving Euphorbia that is lower lying than many and forms colonies that reach from 12 to 36 inches and spreads well 20-35 inches in Zones 5-9.
Ideal for the front of borders to trail the eye to bigger plants and blooms, though with its acid green flowers and strappy purple leaves, all eyes will be on it.
The strappy leaves are like a mass of fingers stemming from a central point on the stem, with hints of deep purple on a dark green background. The astounding contrasting lime green to yellow flowers stand tall from the foliage on purple to red stems.
It really is a prime example of the colors that Euphorbia can offer and makes a nice companion to alchemilla, bergenia and geraniums.
This extremely hardy plant thrives in temperatures down to -20°F and is comfortable in full sun. For regions that get colder, the plant can be covered to protect it or grow in containers.
Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima)
Potentially one of the most well-known Christmas plants, besides the tree itself, poinsettias are also perhaps the most famous Euphorbia. It reminds me of my Grandfather, as he always had them around his house when I was a child.
This Mexico native is usually kept in pots during the holiday season, sold as an annual, then discarded. But it’s actually a perennial shrub and quite at home planted in beds, borders, lining driveways and bring its red punch to pots.
It can stay outdoors year-round in Zones 9-11, but must be brought in when the weather gets cold in other regions. Not just a Christmas plant, it’s more versatile than many realize.
As we mentioned, it’s native to Central America and Mexico, and is sometimes called Christmas star, fire on the mountain, Mexican Easter flower or Christmas flower.
It looks amazing with calatheas/marantas (prayer plants).
It limits poinsettias growth when it’s kept in pots in the house. Planted outside where it has space to spread, its magnificent foliage of deep green and red tones can reach anything from 35 inches tall to a whopping 120 inches tall and wide.
Crown of Thorns (Euphorbia milii)
Commonly referred to as crown of thorns or Christ plant, this Euphorbia is like a firework in the garden, with sprays of pink to red blooms on succulent stems coming out of bright green foliage.
It grows 24-36 inches tall as an ornamental, but has been known to grow up to 72 inches in its native Madagascar.
Crown of Thorns has naturalized in the Middle East and some believe the crown of Christ was made from it, as it has stiff black thorns.
Plant it alongside other succulents and salvia. This species is not one for cooler regions and won’t grow below 35°F. Reserve this perennial for Zones 9-11. It’s not a fan of wet conditions, either.
Mediterranean Spurge (Euphorbia characias)
Mediterranean spurge reminds me of a feather duster with its abundance of long, lime green to yellow stems of blooms. The foliage is dark blue-green, contrasting against the flower stalks when they appear in the summer.
This evergreen shrub provides year-round color in warmer climates in Zones 8-10, but can grow in Zones 6 and 7 as a deciduous perennial.
Companions that compliment are Rudbeckia (black eyed Susan), catmint and red valerian.
The wulfenii sunspecies is ideal as a privacy screen on a boundary or in front of fencing as it grows between 36-48 inches tall and similar in spread.
Baja Spurge (Euphorbia xanti)
Native to Baja California and located in sandy crevasses of coastal areas and rocks where it can anchor its rhizome roots, Baja spurge works as a marvelous option for rock gardens, as it thrives in rocky, dry soil.
Even better, it’s highly fragrant when the pink and white blooms on clusters of blue-grey foliage appear in the spring. It will happily self-seed and grows in cheerful masses once established. You can divide it and plant it in new places or give it away to friends.
Just imagine the bold display when planted alongside golden barrel cacti (Echinocactus grusonii), Sticks of fire (Euphorbia tirucalli), Mexican bush sage (Salvia leucantha) and ‘Blue Flame’ agave (A. shawii x attenuata ‘Blue Flame’). It’s also a hit with hummingbirds.
Baja spurge spreads and grows rapidly in Zones 9-11, reaching heights of 48-72 and 72-96 inches wide.
Oblong or Balkan Spurge (Euphorbia oblongata)
Oblong, eggleaf, or Balkan spurge is a daintier species of Euphorbia with fuller foliage than some others. The almost fluorescent green to yellow petals form on top of emerald green egg-shaped foliage, making for a petite but dramatic display.
It’s considered a great filler for flower arrangements due to its long stems and astounding vase life.
As a perennial, it typically reaches between just 8-24 inches tall to a spread of approximately 24 inches.
It’s well-suited for areas of the garden that gets speckled sunlight and likes fertile, free draining soils, though it can be invasive in some regions if not kept under control. It’s hardy in Zones 6-10.
Combine with gladioli and bearded irises.
Growing from Seed
One of the best ways to grow Euphorbia to fit any budget is via seeds. Remember, hybrids might be sterile or won’t grow true to seed. Generally, there is a 10-14-day germination period, but this varies from species to species.
To increase the chances of success, soak the seeds in room temperatured water overnight before sowing into cells containing a free draining seed starting medium.
Seeds like moderate humidity and to be maintained at 65-75°F. To support the humidity levels use a clear plastic bag to tent over the seeds after sowing. This also helps to maintain moisture levels until germination occurs.
Keep the soil moist and place seeds in an area with bright, indirect light.
Once germinated and growing, seedlings should be kept at 60°F. Using heated pads can help maintain and stabilize temperatures. Remember to harden off seedlings before planting out.
Caring for Euphorbia
Almost all species require full to partial sun, though some species need shade. Research the particular species to ensure that you’re giving it the conditions it prefers.
Similarly, most require somewhat dry, well-draining soil, though there are a few that thrive in moist or even wet earth. The soil pH should be slightly acidic to neutral, with a pH around 5.0-7.0. Fertilizer typically isn’t necessary.
These plants typically prefer warm weather, though some can survive in cooler climates.
Here’s a quick summary to help you out with raising these plants:
- Most need at least six hours of sun to encourage blooming.
- Space them 9-12 inches apart, depending on the species.
- When growing in pots, use a cactus or succulent mix.
- Some Euphorbia species prefer growing directly in beds and gardens, not containers.
- Divide plants every 2-3 years in order to prevent crowding.
- Cut back once flowering is finished to encourage regrowth the next season and prevent seed spread.
Maintenance and Handling
When harvesting for arrangements and displays dip the stem ends into boiling water for ten seconds as soon as cut. This stops the flow of milky sap and seals the ends.
When handling this species of plant care is advised, wear gloves and do not indigest any part of the plant, foliage or flowers.
Otherwise, the only maintenance required is to cut off seed stalks, and remove any dead, dying, or diseased parts.
Euphorbia is generally low maintenance, but if there are signs such as poor growth, foliage discoloration or premature de-flowering or drying it could be a nutrients issue or too much or too little water.
Pests and Diseases
Most species grow from spring through fall and go dormant in the winter. It’s important to look for issues in the spring so you can prevent problems from plaguing your plants all year long.
Stress can make them vulnerable to damping off, powdery mildew, root rot, tobacco mosaic virus, and fusarium wilt.
Due to the species being toxic in varying degrees, it is deer and rabbit-resistant.
The main pests that can threaten Euphorbia species are mealybugs, aphids, spider mites, thrips, caterpillars, and nematodes.
At the first signs of an infestation treatments such as neem oil is a natural alternative to chemical pesticides, though it won’t helpwith nematodes. Depending on the severity of the infestation, stronger pesticides might be necessary.
Generally, keeping plants healthy with appropriate sun and water, and pruning to maintain good air circulation, will help tremendously in avoiding problems. Also, be sure to water at the soil level and not on the foliage.